After the success of XX Strong Ale, the second in the series of re-creations from Fuller’s ancient brewing books has been eagerly awaited.

This time around head brewer John Keeling and his crew have plumped for Double Stout, a big, nourishing, near-black beer that takes no prisoners.

The recipe has been plucked from the records for the 4 August 1893 and succinctly illustrates just how bold and potent certain beers were at the time.

Today we are used to stouts running out at around 4% ABV; this mighty beast is almost twice as strong.

Anyone familiar with the imperial stout style will understand the notes of winey fruit, burnt caramel, smoky dark chocolate, tart roasted grains and faint leather evident in the aroma.

This leads you to expect a major onslaught on the tongue but the beer actually drinks more easily than its strength would imply.

Flavours are on the sweet side, with liquorice and coffee to the fore and a slightly vinous tartness behind. The texture is luxurious, smooth and airy (the beer is bottle conditioned) and a gentle warmth underpins the whole sensation.

Nutty, bitter, roasted grains dominate the smoky finish, bringing yet more dark chocolate and coffee.

I wasn’t too keen on Past Masters No. 1 as I felt the alcohol showed through a little too prominently, but Double Stout is a belter of a beer – deep, complex, fresh-tasting and very rewarding.