To quote the Mamas & the Papas, all the leaves are brown and the sky is grey. Autumn is upon us and once again beer reveals its great versatility. What other drink provides new, complementary flavours for every season?

From the fresh, clean hoppiness of spring ales to the quenching golden beers of summer, brewers cater for all times of the year, rounding off in the depths of winter with something rich, nourishing and warming.

In between, the final part of the seasonal jigsaw is snapped into place – autumnal ales, reflecting the russet hues of nature in decline.

As befits a major regional brewer, Shepherd Neame has led the way with seasonal fare. The autumn ale is called Late Red, and it’s available in bottle as well as draught.

Getting the negatives out of the way first, the bottled beer is pasteurised and it’s presented in clear glass. Knowing the damage these things can bring to a well-brewed beer, my pre-estimation of the beer starts low.

However, Late Red actually copes rather well, its malt character holding its own against the twin torments of heat treatment and light strike.

Once opened, this is a good, satisfying beer with plenty of character. The rusty amber colouring more than hints at the complex malt flavours to follow, as does the aroma, which is filled with lush caramel and nut, with just a little orchard fruit freshness.

The taste is comforting and pleasantly wholesome, as the malts lead the way. There’s more caramel up front, laced with nut, with a pleasant contrast offered by a subtle fruity sweetness and a floral note from the featured Golding and Cascade hops.

But for the real effect of the hops, you’ll need to wait for the finish. Then, the bitterness they contribute pushes through, offsetting the lingering caramel flavours.

It’s a bit of a cliché to suggest that this is the sort of beer you could sip contentedly by a crackling bonfire, but that’s certainly one way in which Late Red would come into its own. Another would be alongside a spit-roasted chicken, allowing the caramel notes of both food and drink to blend harmoniously together.