Rummaging around in some old copies of the Good Beer Guide, I discovered that Fuller’s has been producing an IPA since at least 1995.

The beer, named simply India Pale Ale, is a fine beer, a 4.8% ABV showcase for Golding hops, but it has been confined always to seasonal status, with casks rolling out to selected pubs initially in spring time and latterly in the autumn.

Things have changed, however. India Pale Ale has been pushed to the sidelines by another beer in the same style. It may return, but for the meantime there’s a new kid on the block that has whipped up some positive headlines during its recent run as a Fuller’s guest ale.

It's called Bengal Lancer and it’s also now available in bottle, too.

Named after the illustrious 19th-century cavalry regiment, the beer is arguably an even more authentic IPA than India Pale Ale, in that the strength is a little nearer the mark set down by beers shipped out to the subcontinent during the original Lancers’ tour of duty there.

It’s still only 5% on draught, but the bottle-conditioned version does have a bit more kick at 5.3%.

Fuller’s now has a very impressive collection of bottle-conditioned ales – from the magnificent 1845 and Vintage Ale to the more recently added Brewer’s Reserve and Gale’s Prize Old Ale – and Bengal Lancer only serves to enhance the company’s reputation as the sort of brewery that knows what it’s talking about when it comes to bottled beer.

Deep golden, or perhaps light amber, in the glass, the beer presents a lush, hoppy aroma, packed with oily, sappy resins and laced with a sherbety citrus note. There’s an almost pineapple-like tropical fruit character, too, with everything built on a sturdy bed of biscuity pale and crystal malt.

British drinkers who spent the 20th century shirking in fear of hops behind some rather innocuous bitters and best bitters are now a lot bolder in their approach to new beers.

Perhaps it’s the influence of American craft brewers in pushing the hop envelope, but whatever the reason, UK beer lovers are now no longer afraid of beers with exaggerated hop character.

The reception given to Bengal Lancer is proof of this, although those who have become addicted to lupulin will, no doubt, still find it falling short in that department. Like curryholics fixated by chilli heat, some hopheads just can’t get enough. I’ve already read one Twitter comment that questioned the mysterious ‘lack of hops’.

To my mind, Bengal Lancer sensibly marries a high score on the hop register with excellent drinkability. Bundles of Golding, Fuggle and Target hops present a resin-like bite and dry the palate, bringing tropical fruit and lemon jelly flavours to complement sweet, biscuity malt.

A little peppery warmth reminds you that this is not exactly a quaffing beer, but the way the leafy hops and their tangy fruit dominate the very dry finish means that you’re hardly likely to bolt the glass anyway. In short, it’s a solid, satisfying beer with bags of character.

The number of serious, grown-up IPAs available in the UK is increasing every day. Fuller’s latest take on the style is one of the best.